Chardonnay is Burgundy’s best-known white grape, but “buttery Chardonnay” is not its default personality. The variety is relatively adaptable. Where it grows, how ripe the fruit becomes, the use of oak, malolactic fermentation and time on lees can all change the result. A clean, brisk Chablis and a complex, barrel-matured Côte de Beaune white can both be Chardonnay without tasting remotely alike.
Chardonnay is grown worldwide, not only in Burgundy. The word “Chablis” is an appellation origin, not a grape or synonym for all dry Chardonnay. White Burgundy ranges from everyday regional wine to extraordinary site-specific bottlings. High prices partly reflect scarcity and reputation, not a guarantee that the wine suits your preferred style.