Grüner Veltliner, pronounced roughly GROO-ner VELT-lee-ner, is Austria’s signature white grape, but it is no single taste. A brisk, everyday Grüner can feel beautifully fresh, with apple, lemon and a little white pepper. A powerful single-vineyard wine from the Wachau or Wagram can be layered, textured and capable of developing with age.
The peppery note often associated with the grape has a chemical connection: the aroma compound rotundone occurs in the grape’s skins. But the flavour is not automatic, and you may instead find pear, peach, herbs, citrus or a savoury quality. Wine depends on the site, weather, fermentation choices and maturity of the fruit.
Most familiar versions are dry, making Grüner unusually friendly with food. It often shines with ingredients that other wines find tricky: asparagus, green herbs, tangy cheese, schnitzel and roast poultry. Its strength is flexibility, not simply being fashionable.