May Day drinks: floral, fresh and made for the first properly outdoor gatherings.

Elderflower, fresh herbs, light citrus and blossom-led aromas make more sense in early May because the season outside the glass is beginning to match them.

The challenge is restraint. Floral should suggest a garden, not confirm that one has fallen into the drink.

Apple, gentle fizz and outdoor drinking make cider a natural May Day route, particularly with cheese, pork pies, picnic food and lighter grilled dishes.

A fresh cider can feel more seasonal than a heavily built cocktail simply because it asks less of the afternoon.

Bright acidity and bubbles work across salty snacks, pastry, cheese and light lunch food, which makes sparkling wine an easy shared-table option.

Sparkling tea can play a similar role when alcohol is not wanted.

May Day traditions in Britain have included greenery, flowers, garlands, maypoles, dancing and community celebration for centuries. The details vary considerably by place and period.

Which is reassuring: apparently even traditional festivals have always had several versions running at once.