Wither
Reduce moisture and soften the leaf while early aroma chemistry develops.
Tea encyclopaedia · Processing
Black, green, white, oolong, yellow and dark tea are not six different plants. Their identities emerge from the interaction of cultivar, harvest and — crucially — how the fresh leaf is processed.
The processing levers
Reduce moisture and soften the leaf while early aroma chemistry develops.
Shape the leaf and break cell structures to expose compounds to oxygen.
Encourage it, limit it, or stop it early depending on the tea family.
Steam, pan-fire, bake or roast to stop reactions and build flavour.
Stabilise the tea, then sort, roast, scent, compress or age where appropriate.
Tea families
Usually withered and dried with relatively little shaping. The simplicity of the sequence does not mean the chemistry stands still.
Examples
Silver needle, white peony
Heat is applied soon after harvest to deactivate enzymes. Steaming and pan-firing lead to different aroma and texture directions.
Examples
Sencha, gyokuro, Longjing
A rare family related to green tea production, with an additional controlled warm resting stage that softens some greener characters.
Examples
Junshan Yinzhen
Leaves are deliberately bruised and oxidised to a chosen degree before heat-fixing, shaping and drying. The range runs from floral and green to dark and roasted.
Examples
Tieguanyin, Wuyi oolong, high-mountain oolong
Leaves are withered, rolled or cut, then oxidation is encouraged before drying. In China this family is commonly called red tea because of the liquor colour.
Examples
Assam, Darjeeling black, Keemun, Ceylon
A broad family in which microbial activity after the initial tea-making process becomes important. Some styles are compressed and aged.
Examples
Pu-erh, Liu Bao, hei cha
A useful language correction
In black and oolong tea, the familiar browning process is driven mainly by plant enzymes reacting with oxygen after the cells are damaged. That is oxidation. True microbial fermentation becomes especially relevant in post-fermented or dark teas such as many pu-erh styles.
See the full leaf-to-cup journeyAnd herbal “tea”?
Chamomile flowers, peppermint leaves, rooibos, hibiscus and fruit blends are not made from Camellia sinensis. Their growing, drying and blending stories are worth covering separately rather than forcing them into the six tea families.
Taste the processing
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