Christmas drinking traditions: why we toast, mull, warm and save the good bottle

Christmas combines several different occasions inside one day. A drink before lunch has a different job from a drink with turkey, pudding or cheese, which is why the season has accumulated such a wide range of traditions.

The useful modern version is not to serve everything. Pick the traditions that suit the people at your table and let each drink have a reason to be there.

Warm spiced wine, cider and non-alcoholic apple drinks work because heat carries aroma quickly. Citrus peel, cinnamon, clove and star anise all become more obvious when warmed, so restraint matters.

Historically, spiced and warmed drinks appear across several European traditions, but modern recipes vary widely. The common thread is warmth, aroma and hospitality rather than one fixed formula.

Sparkling wine is strongly associated with celebration because bubbles, cold temperature and the sound of opening a bottle create a ritual of their own. Champagne is one route, but Cava, Crémant, English sparkling wine and alcohol-free sparkling drinks can all do the same social job.

A good toast does not need to be expensive. It needs to be ready, cold and shared at the right moment.

Port, Sherry, whisky, brandy, rum, coffee and hot chocolate all make sense after a large meal because they are usually served in smaller quantities and at a slower pace.

This is also the moment where cheese, nuts, chocolate and Christmas pudding create some of the season’s best pairing opportunities.